Yes!!! The sun finally broke through the clouds today! What did we do? Sam and I went for our now routine after breakfast walk followed by a warm cappuccino.
Today we explored the coast of Chiavari. We walked to the end of the passagiata then along the beach till we couldn't walk anymore. We then walked along the rocks past the fascist era tower, built on Mussolini orders, till we hit the end of the beach. Or so we thought. Sam wanted to explore and take a look at the old train tunnel no longer in use. Ok, onwards we climbed over and across the rocks till we reached the other side, which is completely wild and undeveloped - and a good place for the vagrants to camp - so they do. I would not be walking here alone. We discovered a new beach that for the moment seems isolated, but I am sure in the summer it is overrun. Sam and I found a nice place to sit and soaked up the morning sun. To see more photos from our walk, Click here and go to my homepage.
After a while we were craving our morning fix of coffee and headed back to the passagiata to meet up with some of our friends. We joined Ian and Silvia Lewis with their daughter Chiara tagging along and also Jan Fischer. We had arranged to meet at one of our favorite bars on the passagiata because they finally added an extension enclosed in glass. The bar is right in the middle of the passagiata next to the new fountain. It has the best view to Portofino and the new tables and chairs sure were inviting. We eagerly walked in and asked to sit in the new seats. Not a chance, we were told. Those seats were only open after 12 p.m.. Hey, that's lunchtime and it was only 10 a.m.! We asked why. It seemed so silly. We would take our coffees to the tables, we didn't need service. No dice. In Liguria, sometimes somethings never make any sense to us "stranieri". Here was the owner's reasoning. If he let us sit there, he would have to let others sit there. Ok. What is the big deal you ask? See, some people would have a coffee, sit down, and stay all day soaking up the sun. He would not make any money because there would be no turnover of the tables. The owner could never ask his customers to leave because, that is simply not done here. Furthermore, because people might not leave, he would not have free tables to serve lunch on, which is what he most likely is banking on to make money to pay for the new addition.... For the Chiavarese it is logical. For us? The foreigners who wanted to sit and have a cappuccino in the sun? Crazy!
A dopo!
Krista
Tuesday, January 31, 2006
Happy Birthday Chris!
Chris Incao is one of my oldest dearest friends from my days growing up on Long Island. We met 22 years ago while we both held part time jobs at... gasp... Burger King. I can't believe I just admitted that! Back then, I worked the drive thru, he made the Whoppers in the back with his twin brother Paul. We had tons of fun scooping cock roaches out of the milkshake machine (bet you won't order one of those again) and squirting catchup at each other when no one was looking! I will stop the story there out of respect for by husband.
These days Mr. Incao is a very happy single father with 2 wonderful kids. He is lives outside Philadelphia and works hard keeping the IT systems functioning for some big important company. My how far you have come from flipping hamburgers!
Yes, today is your day. Make it a great one! Go and celebrate my friend.
Auguri!
Krista
These days Mr. Incao is a very happy single father with 2 wonderful kids. He is lives outside Philadelphia and works hard keeping the IT systems functioning for some big important company. My how far you have come from flipping hamburgers!
Yes, today is your day. Make it a great one! Go and celebrate my friend.
Auguri!
Krista
Monday, January 30, 2006
Laundry Hell
As predicted yesterday by the weatherman, the sun did not show it's face today, but, lucky for us the rain has let up and the wind has started to blow. What does that mean? Time to do the laundry.....
What is the big deal you say? You must be an American!
Laundry to an Italian is a whole other basket of dirty knickers (undies). You Americans have no idea how good you have it with your extra capacity, 14 shower size towels in a single load washing machines with super fast cycles. You unload your wet laundry and put it in your super extra capacity hot dryers. Three loads of laundry all done and ready to fold while you watch TV or make dinner for the family. Here in Bella Italia there is a whole other story to be told.
In Italy we have super small front loading very long cycle washing machines. Mind you they are very efficient and save on water and even heat the water to 90 degrees Celsius. Think very clean whitey tighties without bleach. But what we save in water we lose in time. My lavatrice (lets speak in Italian), as I said before, sits on my terrace. Don't worry it is protected and has yet to freeze in the winter. Only problem, it holds about a 1/4 of my old washer in the States, which means I do 4 times as much laundry. Which means 4 times more of my time dedicated to this drudgery.
After the laundry is clean, it is still wet. Do I have a dryer? Nah. I have to hang it up to dry!!!! Very romantic, I know, but when in rains, very inefficient. Yes, I can buy a dryer here and that is one of the most frequently asked questions by American visitors. But the dryers are not like the ones you use in the states - unless you live in a very small apartment in NYC and don't want to use the laundromat. Here in Italy, the dryers only run on electricity, no gas, and do not vent outside. Why is this important? Look at your dryer, you have a tube that somehow finds it's way outside. Meaning the vapors from you drying clothes vent to the great outdoors. Here, the dryers heat to dry, but condense the vapor internally. At the end of the cycle you empty a tray of water. The process is completely different and much longer and adds to the cost of running one of these machines.
All that is fine. I could live with it, but, I do not have enough current in my home to run the darn thing anyway. If I had one and used it. It would have to unplug the refrigerator each time I turned it on. I simply do not have the watts coming through my circuit breaker to operate it. As it stands now, I am stretched to the limit with my dishwasher! If I run that and my fridge cycles at the same time, I trip the circuit breaker anyway and we are in the dark! It happens every time we have a dinner party.
In addition, where would I put a dryer? Certainly not outside with my washer. So what is a homemaker to do? I do what every other casalinghe (homemaker) does, I simply hang my clothes on the line attached to my terrace. Lucky for me, I have the space to hang about 4 loads at a time, a luxury. Way back when I was looking at renting this apartment the laundry lines were a major selling point, a wonderful thing, see, I was the only apartment with such a huge one. I remember snickering when told of how lovely this contraption was, see it even has lines under the terrace above covering the wet laundry and protecting it from the weather!!! How pre war it all seemed, I was a women of the future and I was determined to get me a dryer. I was going to break the mold. I was so naive back then. Today, almost 6 years later.... I am still hanging my knickers on the laundry line in defeat still dreaming of a dryer. But..... When in Rome do as the Romans.
What can I say to all you Yankees reading my blog? Tonight before you go to bed, go give your washer and dryer a big hug for it works hard for you and deserves some love and attention!
A dopo!
Krista
What is the big deal you say? You must be an American!
Laundry to an Italian is a whole other basket of dirty knickers (undies). You Americans have no idea how good you have it with your extra capacity, 14 shower size towels in a single load washing machines with super fast cycles. You unload your wet laundry and put it in your super extra capacity hot dryers. Three loads of laundry all done and ready to fold while you watch TV or make dinner for the family. Here in Bella Italia there is a whole other story to be told.
In Italy we have super small front loading very long cycle washing machines. Mind you they are very efficient and save on water and even heat the water to 90 degrees Celsius. Think very clean whitey tighties without bleach. But what we save in water we lose in time. My lavatrice (lets speak in Italian), as I said before, sits on my terrace. Don't worry it is protected and has yet to freeze in the winter. Only problem, it holds about a 1/4 of my old washer in the States, which means I do 4 times as much laundry. Which means 4 times more of my time dedicated to this drudgery.
After the laundry is clean, it is still wet. Do I have a dryer? Nah. I have to hang it up to dry!!!! Very romantic, I know, but when in rains, very inefficient. Yes, I can buy a dryer here and that is one of the most frequently asked questions by American visitors. But the dryers are not like the ones you use in the states - unless you live in a very small apartment in NYC and don't want to use the laundromat. Here in Italy, the dryers only run on electricity, no gas, and do not vent outside. Why is this important? Look at your dryer, you have a tube that somehow finds it's way outside. Meaning the vapors from you drying clothes vent to the great outdoors. Here, the dryers heat to dry, but condense the vapor internally. At the end of the cycle you empty a tray of water. The process is completely different and much longer and adds to the cost of running one of these machines.
All that is fine. I could live with it, but, I do not have enough current in my home to run the darn thing anyway. If I had one and used it. It would have to unplug the refrigerator each time I turned it on. I simply do not have the watts coming through my circuit breaker to operate it. As it stands now, I am stretched to the limit with my dishwasher! If I run that and my fridge cycles at the same time, I trip the circuit breaker anyway and we are in the dark! It happens every time we have a dinner party.
In addition, where would I put a dryer? Certainly not outside with my washer. So what is a homemaker to do? I do what every other casalinghe (homemaker) does, I simply hang my clothes on the line attached to my terrace. Lucky for me, I have the space to hang about 4 loads at a time, a luxury. Way back when I was looking at renting this apartment the laundry lines were a major selling point, a wonderful thing, see, I was the only apartment with such a huge one. I remember snickering when told of how lovely this contraption was, see it even has lines under the terrace above covering the wet laundry and protecting it from the weather!!! How pre war it all seemed, I was a women of the future and I was determined to get me a dryer. I was going to break the mold. I was so naive back then. Today, almost 6 years later.... I am still hanging my knickers on the laundry line in defeat still dreaming of a dryer. But..... When in Rome do as the Romans.
What can I say to all you Yankees reading my blog? Tonight before you go to bed, go give your washer and dryer a big hug for it works hard for you and deserves some love and attention!
A dopo!
Krista
You can't make this stuff up....
Italians have the most entertaining leader in Europe, if not the world. Imagine Tony Blair making such a declaration to the British? I need to get out of the house and have my cappuccino. I cannot wait to see the morning papers......
Ci vediamo a dopo!
Krista
Vows No Sex Until Voting
Jan 29 4:06 PM US/Eastern
ROME
Premier Silvio Berlusconi has promised Italians he would lower taxes and raise pensions. His latest campaign pledge is rather personal: no sex until April 9 elections, an Italian newspaper reported Sunday.
Il Giornale, a conservative Milan daily owned by Paolo Berlusconi, the premier's brother, reported that the no-sex vow was made during a campaign rally in Cagliari, Sardinia, on Saturday with a popular TV preacher on the island and his followers.
The clergyman, Rev. Massimiliano Pusceddu, praised the premier for what he described as a defense of family values and promised that his followers would support the conservative leader because "if the left wins it will be the moral end for this country."
"Let me give you my blessing," the priest was quoted as saying.
Berlusconi replied, smiling, according to Il Giornale: "Dear Father Massimiliano. I thank you a lot. I will try to meet your expectations, and I promise from now on, 2 1/2 months of absolute sexual abstinence, until April 9."
Berlusconi's challenger in the vote is Romano Prodi, a center-left leader and former premier.
Ci vediamo a dopo!
Krista
Sunday, January 29, 2006
Generazione 1000 EURO
I was surfing through the news today and I came across this little piece in the Guardian, for my American readers, an English newspaper (which leans a bit to the left).
Left, right, or center - what the authors of Generazione 1000 EURO are writing about is true. Young Italians are notoriously under paid in comparison to say, the UK, or the United States. As a personal reference, while I was IN university, I made, part time, selling cosmetics in a department store located on Long Island, $1,000 a month. That job didn't even require a degree and it was back in 1988! Decent good paying entry level jobs are next to impossible to find in Italy. Trying to get a leg up into the work force for students just out of university can be a crushing experience. I could get into some of the reasons I believe this happens, but this a friendly blog and I would like to keep it that way. I don't want to get into the labor laws that stifle the labor market ( you just can't fire someone, even if they don't do their job) or the fact "students", meaning people under a certain age, can be hired at lower than average salaries to be given the opportunity to gain "work experience" and then be let go to when they "out grow" the job and there is a hoard of "students" waiting to take their place.
But hey, I am sure this online novel is very good. For my Italian readers click here and download the novel and read it for yourself. And wow, if they are getting noticed outside of Italy, these guys are on the way to success! Maybe one day it will be translated because I would love to read it, I bet you would too!
A tardi!
Krista
Young Italians find a hero
Thousands download an internet novel highlighting the plight of the ?1,000-a-month workers
Barbara McMahon in Rome
Sunday January 29, 2006
A novel published free on the internet has become a surprise hit in Italy, downloaded by thousands of young people who identify with the main character struggling to survive on a monthly salary of 1,000 euros.
It tells the story of Claudio, a 27-year-old university graduate who works as an account manager at a multinational firm in Milan that makes gadgets for mobile phones, and tries to have a happy life despite being constantly broke and unsure about the future.
Striking a chord with a whole generation of Italians who are in a similar situation, the book is called Generazione 1000 Euro and has been written by two young journalists, Antonio Incorvaia and Alessandro Rimassa. Both in their thirties, they claim Claudio represents millions of young people, not just in Italy but all over Europe, who feel that they are 'unseen and undervalued'.
The pair claim this disaffected section of society is not those straight out of school or university who have yet to climb the career ladder, but under-35s who have completed further education and have been employed for years. Nor are they all stuck in dead-end jobs.
'Many of them have prestigious and trendy positions, in the media, event management and marketing," says Rimassa. 'They have responsibility and pressures, but hardly any money.'
The men based the book on their own experiences and those of their friends and say that despite the economic difficulties facing their generation, the under-35s are not willing to give up the good things in life. Although financially restricted, they still enjoy parties, travelling and going out with their friends. They have found ways to make the best of what they have by living low-cost lives.
A survey of 1,600 people carried out by the left-leaning economic and social studies institute IRES, along with Italy's biggest trade union Cgil, reported this week that 89.2 per cent of the 17-24 age group earned under 1,000 euros a month along with 64.9 per cent of those in the 25-32 age group. It also revealed that 70 per cent of female workers questioned earned below a thousand euros a month.The survey also showed that 87 per cent of Italians under the age of 24 work on short-term contracts, as well as 53.5 per cent of Italians in the 25-32-year age group.
Left, right, or center - what the authors of Generazione 1000 EURO are writing about is true. Young Italians are notoriously under paid in comparison to say, the UK, or the United States. As a personal reference, while I was IN university, I made, part time, selling cosmetics in a department store located on Long Island, $1,000 a month. That job didn't even require a degree and it was back in 1988! Decent good paying entry level jobs are next to impossible to find in Italy. Trying to get a leg up into the work force for students just out of university can be a crushing experience. I could get into some of the reasons I believe this happens, but this a friendly blog and I would like to keep it that way. I don't want to get into the labor laws that stifle the labor market ( you just can't fire someone, even if they don't do their job) or the fact "students", meaning people under a certain age, can be hired at lower than average salaries to be given the opportunity to gain "work experience" and then be let go to when they "out grow" the job and there is a hoard of "students" waiting to take their place.
But hey, I am sure this online novel is very good. For my Italian readers click here and download the novel and read it for yourself. And wow, if they are getting noticed outside of Italy, these guys are on the way to success! Maybe one day it will be translated because I would love to read it, I bet you would too!
A tardi!
Krista
Chaos at the Crockfords!
What does one do to pass the time during a very cold wet weekend? Invite your children's friends to the house for a sleepover!!! Sarah and Anna had a grand time this weekend with their good friends, Virginia and Valentina. The girls spent Saturday afternoon going from one room to the next leaving disaster behind them while I tried to keep the noise and mess to a minimum. Three screaming eleven year olds and one crazy 10 year old! Chaos reigned. Not even a film could keep them quiet and still for long. Fine with us. Their choice of movie? GREASE! It is bad enough watching John Travolta and Olivia Newton John speaking in their native tongue, torture dubbed into Italian. At least the songs were in the original format, I just hope the Italian kids couldn't understand the lyrics! Go greased lighting....
The little hellions finally fell asleep shortly after midnight only to wake up this morning at 7 am! Thank god for the Cartoon Network, yes we have that here as well as Disney, Sam and I slept in. We finally rolled out of our warm bed at 9:30 because the natives were growing restless with hunger! The kids requested a pancake breakfast complete with maple syrup. I modified the menu a bit for the Italian contingent. Instead I made crepes and offered the choice of Nutella to go with them. Nutella is a chocolate/hazelnut spread - the Italian equivalent of Skippy. Nutella is a food most Italian kids grown up eating and secretly yearn for into adulthood, just like we Americans and our beloved Skippy Peanut Butter. Both are comfort foods with suspect nutritional merit but uniquely part of our history and culture.
Valentina's mom collected her daughter at 12 and Virginia just left. Ahh... peace and quiet reigns! The girls have picked up their rooms and now are decompressing. Anna is working at her new 3,000 piece puzzle and Sarah is playing her violin. Sam is writing a report for a risk management survey he did yesterday aboard a 110 foot sailboat. Lucky him, he escaped the zoo and went to Genoa to sit on a yacht and got paid for it. Ahhh, he has the life these days. Me, I am blogging and thinking about what I should make for lunch. I thinking of something easy, like say, Pasta pomodoro!
To update you on the weather... If you remember on one of my previous posts I mentioned that it can start to rain and not stop for a week. Well, it started to rain Thursday, it turned to snow, then back to rain. It has yet to stop and the forecast is for more of the same tomorrow! Argh! You should see my pile of laundry. Rain here means I cannot get it done. My washing machine is on my terrace which is outside and I have no dryer. I hang my laundry off the terrace to dry! Now, that is another complete blog entry! Laundry in Italy! Think I will save that idea for another day. I have to go get lunch ready, Sam is looking at me with those hungry eyes...
Ciao for now!
Krista
The little hellions finally fell asleep shortly after midnight only to wake up this morning at 7 am! Thank god for the Cartoon Network, yes we have that here as well as Disney, Sam and I slept in. We finally rolled out of our warm bed at 9:30 because the natives were growing restless with hunger! The kids requested a pancake breakfast complete with maple syrup. I modified the menu a bit for the Italian contingent. Instead I made crepes and offered the choice of Nutella to go with them. Nutella is a chocolate/hazelnut spread - the Italian equivalent of Skippy. Nutella is a food most Italian kids grown up eating and secretly yearn for into adulthood, just like we Americans and our beloved Skippy Peanut Butter. Both are comfort foods with suspect nutritional merit but uniquely part of our history and culture.
Valentina's mom collected her daughter at 12 and Virginia just left. Ahh... peace and quiet reigns! The girls have picked up their rooms and now are decompressing. Anna is working at her new 3,000 piece puzzle and Sarah is playing her violin. Sam is writing a report for a risk management survey he did yesterday aboard a 110 foot sailboat. Lucky him, he escaped the zoo and went to Genoa to sit on a yacht and got paid for it. Ahhh, he has the life these days. Me, I am blogging and thinking about what I should make for lunch. I thinking of something easy, like say, Pasta pomodoro!
To update you on the weather... If you remember on one of my previous posts I mentioned that it can start to rain and not stop for a week. Well, it started to rain Thursday, it turned to snow, then back to rain. It has yet to stop and the forecast is for more of the same tomorrow! Argh! You should see my pile of laundry. Rain here means I cannot get it done. My washing machine is on my terrace which is outside and I have no dryer. I hang my laundry off the terrace to dry! Now, that is another complete blog entry! Laundry in Italy! Think I will save that idea for another day. I have to go get lunch ready, Sam is looking at me with those hungry eyes...
Ciao for now!
Krista
Thursday, January 26, 2006
A very snowy day in Liguria!
Indeed!
Keeping with the "Cold Snap in Italy" theme, this morning the frigid air came to Liguria. We woke up to a cold driving rain that left snow on the upper elevations behind Chiavari. Not unusual.
But.....
Who knew this morning when I left Chiavari for Genoa that I would find weather even more brutal. I was going to a coffee morning hosted by one of the fine ladies of the American Women's club. I phoned ahead and inquired about the weather conditions. I was given the all clear. So, I gave Sam a peck on the cheek and off I went in the mini. I got on the autostrada and thought, ok, this is doable. There was snow on the hills but the roads were clear, on I drove. The closer to Genoa, the heavier the rain was falling. As many of you know, the autostrada in Liguria is a very narrow highway that snakes along the mountains and is only a serious of tunnels connected by bridges. There is no room for error. As I exited one very long tunnel in Nervi the skies suddenly were white!!! It was a blizzard. The heavy rain had turned to heavy snow. As I exited from the highway, which incidentally is perched above Genoa, and descended into Nervi, the wind was blowing and the snow was falling even harder while the thermometer in my car (which registers the outside temp) started to drop. In less that 5 kilometers the temp went from +5C to 0C! By the time was in Genoa, it was -1C! I never made it for coffee, I turned around and hightailed it home. This was no weather to be out in and it was only getting progressively worse. As I crawled in the traffic to get back on the Autostrada the snow was quickly accumulating. I was driving on very icy and slippery slush. I was somewhat safe in my car, but people were out driving around in their scooters! In this weather! Insanity!
I finally made it safely to the autostada. As I left Genoa the snow turned back to rain by the time I got to Recco, about 10 kilometers from Genoa. I got home made myself a cup of tea and thought of how happy and lucky I am to live in Chiavari. Liguria is coastal land bordered by mountains and the weather is driven by the mirco-climates created by the unique Alpine lay of the land. Chiavari seems to be at some advantageous position and for some meteorological phenomenon stays relatively mild. At least most of the time. The snow did finally arrive, and when it did, it looked much more beautiful sitting from the comfort of my office chair looking out the window with my warm cup of tea in my hand. Click here and see the beautiful snow in Chiavari.
The kids will be happy tomorrow, due to the weather, the schools are CLOSED! The whole region (equivalent to a state in the US) has announced that due to the icy road conditions it is too dangerous to ask the students to go to school. Hmmm tomorrow is Friday. I smell a 3 day weekend for the teachers!
Now those of you who live in wintery climates may think this hysteria over such a small amount of snow silly, and you might be right. But.... think of this.... Imagine if somewhere in Florida, or sunny San Diego where it hardly ever snows - suddenly - had snow. They would be paralyzed too. What city invests in snow clearing equipment when it never snows? Not one. Including Genoa. Which according to the latest eyewitness report (Sam on a train heading for Milan), is far much worse off than Chiavari.
The upside to a blizzard on Northern Italy. It is finally snowing in Torino, the host city of the upcoming Winter Olympic Games. The organizers have been praying for snow for it hasn't fallen all month, now their prayers have been answered! Fresh snow right in time for the big games
A tardi!
Krista
Keeping with the "Cold Snap in Italy" theme, this morning the frigid air came to Liguria. We woke up to a cold driving rain that left snow on the upper elevations behind Chiavari. Not unusual.
But.....
Who knew this morning when I left Chiavari for Genoa that I would find weather even more brutal. I was going to a coffee morning hosted by one of the fine ladies of the American Women's club. I phoned ahead and inquired about the weather conditions. I was given the all clear. So, I gave Sam a peck on the cheek and off I went in the mini. I got on the autostrada and thought, ok, this is doable. There was snow on the hills but the roads were clear, on I drove. The closer to Genoa, the heavier the rain was falling. As many of you know, the autostrada in Liguria is a very narrow highway that snakes along the mountains and is only a serious of tunnels connected by bridges. There is no room for error. As I exited one very long tunnel in Nervi the skies suddenly were white!!! It was a blizzard. The heavy rain had turned to heavy snow. As I exited from the highway, which incidentally is perched above Genoa, and descended into Nervi, the wind was blowing and the snow was falling even harder while the thermometer in my car (which registers the outside temp) started to drop. In less that 5 kilometers the temp went from +5C to 0C! By the time was in Genoa, it was -1C! I never made it for coffee, I turned around and hightailed it home. This was no weather to be out in and it was only getting progressively worse. As I crawled in the traffic to get back on the Autostrada the snow was quickly accumulating. I was driving on very icy and slippery slush. I was somewhat safe in my car, but people were out driving around in their scooters! In this weather! Insanity!
I finally made it safely to the autostada. As I left Genoa the snow turned back to rain by the time I got to Recco, about 10 kilometers from Genoa. I got home made myself a cup of tea and thought of how happy and lucky I am to live in Chiavari. Liguria is coastal land bordered by mountains and the weather is driven by the mirco-climates created by the unique Alpine lay of the land. Chiavari seems to be at some advantageous position and for some meteorological phenomenon stays relatively mild. At least most of the time. The snow did finally arrive, and when it did, it looked much more beautiful sitting from the comfort of my office chair looking out the window with my warm cup of tea in my hand. Click here and see the beautiful snow in Chiavari.
The kids will be happy tomorrow, due to the weather, the schools are CLOSED! The whole region (equivalent to a state in the US) has announced that due to the icy road conditions it is too dangerous to ask the students to go to school. Hmmm tomorrow is Friday. I smell a 3 day weekend for the teachers!
Now those of you who live in wintery climates may think this hysteria over such a small amount of snow silly, and you might be right. But.... think of this.... Imagine if somewhere in Florida, or sunny San Diego where it hardly ever snows - suddenly - had snow. They would be paralyzed too. What city invests in snow clearing equipment when it never snows? Not one. Including Genoa. Which according to the latest eyewitness report (Sam on a train heading for Milan), is far much worse off than Chiavari.
The upside to a blizzard on Northern Italy. It is finally snowing in Torino, the host city of the upcoming Winter Olympic Games. The organizers have been praying for snow for it hasn't fallen all month, now their prayers have been answered! Fresh snow right in time for the big games
A tardi!
Krista
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)