Summertime Flu!

Yesterday was a long long day. Anna woke us up in the middle of the night with an upset stomach and spent the rest of the day in the toilet doing what one does when they have the flu as well as running a high fever. In the afternoon, Sam went to pick up Sarah at school to take her to Genoa for her violin lesson and guess what? She had a fever too! So, we have been having a Lord of the Rings / Simpson's dvdathon and the kids have been both camped out on the couch. At least the weather is horrible, rainy and cool. 

I am blogging and at the moment Sam is banging on drums - the kids are still on the couch watching TV.

I am off to make some Chicken Soup!

Krista

More Trash Talkin'

Mona Charen sums up the saga of Naples quite nicely. I couldn't have explained this mess clearer.  Read excerpts from her recent column below the photo or click on the link for the whole thing.

If all this posting about the garbage of Naples has peaked your interest in the city, pick up and read Roberto Saviano's "Gomorroh", or catch the film "Gomorrah", based on the book, this summer at your local artsy cinema. It just debuted last week at the Cannes film festival and is up for an award. If you click over to the site, you can see a trailer but it is quite violent - you are warned. The organized business men of Naples make Tony Soprano look like a pussy cat.

Trash and Politics Italian Style

But Silvio Berlusconi pulled out a great victory. And that is where resemblances to American politics must end. Consider what Berlusconi faces. The New York Times reported it this way: "Beginning his third term as prime minister, Silvio Berlusconi on Wednesday pledged unusually forceful measures to solve Italy's deep problems. These steps include new restrictions on illegal immigrants and the use of the military to tackle the longstanding garbage crisis in Naples." The military? To clear garbage?

Your humble correspondent was just in Italy last week and amid many delights (including the gorgeous Amalfi Coast) had the misfortune to spend the better part of a day in Naples. Nothing prepares you for the squalor. The trash is piled up in great hillocks around the city, many as much as one-story high. The stench is oppressive. A great deal of garbage has of course escaped its plastic bags and decorates the streets and sidewalks. Everywhere your eye falls, even in the district surrounding the Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace), blight reigns. Having just seen Rome and Sorrento, Naples was a jar.

My friend Michael Ledeen, an expert on Italian fascism, Eurocommunism, the history of Italy, terrorism, and many other subjects, is completing a book on Naples. He compares it to New Orleans, another corrupt city. Both cities are doomed, he explains. New Orleans, it need hardly be recalled post-Katrina, lies below sea level in the path of hurricanes. Naples sits right below Mount Vesuvius, which has erupted dozens of times since its catastrophic explosion in A.D. 79, most recently in 1944.

The question now is whether the Italian government has the wherewithal to deal with the literal and figurative mess. Italy is famed for its ungovernability. The trash has piled up in the streets of Naples because the dumps are full and when a new dump or incinerator is proposed, there is loud protest from those in proximity to the planned site. The NIMBY impulse is killing a great European city.

Not only is the trash an aesthetic and health offense, it deepens the corruption of the city. The companies that collect trash are thoroughly infiltrated by the Camorra, as the Neapolitan branch of the mafia is called. City dumps reached capacity a decade ago, so the city has pronounced yearly states of emergency since then. Under the states of emergency, CNN reports, the normal contracting oversight is dispensed with, and Camorra gets the lucrative contracts. The criminals then fail to clear the trash and deal with complaints and competition in time-honored wise-guy fashion. The Camorra is said to earn more than a billion dollars a year from "waste management."

Silvio Berlusconi is from the bustling northern Italian city of Milan. A billionaire with a higher-than-average self-regard ("I am the Jesus Christ of politics"), the black-haired septuagenarian has been plagued by conflict of interest charges. His previous record on economic reform was tepid, and as for his diplomatic skills, well… At the close of the 2003 EU summit he pronounced, "Let's talk about footfall and women." He then turned to the four-times-married German chancellor Gerhard Schroeder and said, "Gerhard, why don't you start?" Regarding his own flexible ethical standards, Berlusconi explained, "If I, taking care of everyone's interests, also take care of my own, you can't talk about a conflict of interest."

Such is the man who now bestrides Italian politics. His quirky egomania seems ill-suited to the grownup job of governing. The trash in Naples is the test. If he can clean that up and take down the Camorra, he will deserve to be mentioned in the same breath as Rudolph Giuliani.

Fuel For Thought

I have been watching the evening news roundup, CNN, Fox, etc and listening to Americans whine over the rising cost of fuel. Amazing to see the prices but....

Want to know what we pay for fuel in here in Euro Zone?

A gallon is more or less 3.7 liters and today the cost of unleaded gas is about 1.47 euro a liter making the price of fuel about 5.44 euros a gallon. If you think that is not huge difference you are - WRONG. 

At today's exchange rate, 5.44 euros = $8.56.  Yes. That is right. A gallon of unleaded gas purchased today in Italy will set you back approximately $8.56 a gallon. 

So. Continuing with my evening math lesson. 

To fill up my car with gas, a mini Cooper S 2, which has a tank that holds 13.2 gallons or 50 liters of gas, at the today's prices, costs about $113 or 71 euros to fill up. Meno male, the car gets good gas mileage, according to the mini web site, about 34 mpg hwy or 26 city for a grand total of 449 miles on one tank.   

Still think Europe is paradise?

Krista

Back to Sarah

Enough about the trash.

Welcome to the life of a very busy 14 year old.

Sarah is on her way out the door after an extended stay pampering herself in the bathroom, putting on her "face" and getting ready for a Thursday night out on the town. Her classmate Saverio is having his annual birthday pizza extravaganza and Sarah is all dolled up. Ah, to be 14 again. 

Anna is sulking, she is not invited. 

These days our house is a festering den of teenage angst and hormones. Sometimes I wish I could hit a rewind button and - poof - my cute little babies are back or, better yet, a fast forward option to 21 and parental independence.

Talkin Trash

Saint Silvio kept his promise and had his first official cabinet meeting in Naples...

He has militarized the trash clean up and promises to clear the city of waste, illegal immigrants and crime.

In Silvio's words....

"Italy's three biggest problems are the cost of public administration and public services, the weight of public debt and the ulcer that is tax evasion," he said. "After that, we will have to apply ourselves to issues of civil justice and to fill the gaps between us and other European nations … I came to Naples also to state that the state will act with determination to ensure laws are respected and to alleviate a situation which is simply not civil."

Amen!  Get those garbage trucks moving!

Krista

PS.  Sorry to all my anti Berlusconi friends. But how can one argue with that statement? È vero, no?

Reflection of the Day

Last week, tragedy struck near to us and I chose not blog about it. Somethings should be private but the event has left me with many thoughts on life.

Some of you may know what happened and we may of even spoken about it. I can't stop wondering and thinking that life is so precious.  It is brief and no matter how we try, we may not have the opportunity to accomplish all that we may desire and feel a sense of satisfaction in our achievements. Some things may weigh heavy on one person's shoulders and on others maybe not.  Is life a circle? Do we get out of it what we put in? At times do the columns just not add up?  Is that a reason to despair? To shout? Or to simply walk away?

On this beautiful Monday morning a pause to reflect on  the meaning of generosity, selfishness and Karma.

By definition, according to the modern wonder called Wikipedia, Selfishness denotes the precedence given in thought or deed to the self, i.e., self interest or self concern. It is the act of placing one's own needs or desires above the needs or desires of others. Selfishness is the opposite of altruism.

Generosity, is the habit of giving. Often equated with charity as a virtue, generosity is widely accepted in society as a desirable habit.

Karma  may vary slightly in different religious or spiritual contexts. The philosophical explanation of the law of Karma is all deeds actively create past, present, and future experiences, this makes one responsible for one's own life and the pain and or joy it brings to her/him and others. Simply, what goes around comes around and what you put into life is what you get out of it.  No time for being mean or petty. Live with joy and joy will find its way into your heart.  If you feel hurt, reach out and talk to a friend, don't lash out in anger or pain. 

Listen to your heart

Listen to your loved ones

Make time for your friends

and...

Be happy in your life.  Give joy and maybe you too will eventually find it.

Krista

  

Krista

Garbage Garbage Everywhere...

I just got back from my morning coffee and quick glance at the newspapers. For months I have been trying to follow the garbage mess in Naples, but whether I read the international or the Italian press, I am still confused about why the streets of Napoli are full of rotting bags of waste. But then again this is Italy and there is never a simple explanation for anything. Not even garbage piling up in the streets.  You would think that someone has to be responsible for picking it up, no?

This complicated mess of what to do with the garbage and where to put it, from what I have been able to piece together has something to do with closed landfills and the control of the garbage business by the local Mafia/Camorra. Ah....this story brings back the memories of Old New York. Can anyone remember those days? Where is Rudy G. when you need him?

The Italian military has been brought in a few times to clean up the garbage and newly elected Berlusconi has promised to fix the mess but the residents are just fed up and are burning the waste in the streets trying to get on with it. The Vigili del Fuoco, or firefighters, who tried to put out the burning piles of rubbish over the weekend were set upon by the residents protesting and raging in the streets to prevent them. War of the Garbage!

 Click over here and take a look at the photos.  Can you just imagine the smell- the rats - cockroaches - the stray dogs feasting?  Who would what to live with that on their doorstep? Riot I might. 

Ok, rotting trash left on the streets and burning, - cue in the global warming alarmists? - has caught the attention of the US Military who are now worried about the water and air quality because of this stinking mess. After all, they have to post staff in Naples which has now become environmentally toxic. Lawsuit American Style anyone?

Catch up on the whole stinking  story of Italy's mess with Reuters....

Pee ewe!

Krista

Ecco Il Papa II

Look at all those people there to see the pope!  More than 35,000! That is the size of the population of Chiavari!

Ecco Il Papa!

The Pope came to Genoa this weekend.

He arrived Friday evening and the traffic headaches began. Unfortunately for the gathered crowds, it has been pouring with rain since his holiness's plane touched ground.  But the heavy rain didn't scare the faithful... nor the protesters - the usual suspects - the angry left, socialists, anti this and anti that who want to get their face and sign on CNN as well as the Mayor of Genoa who marched with the pro abortion protesters.   

Thankfully the clouds did briefly ease up in time for mass this afternoon in Piazza della Vittoria.  While all that was happening in Genoa, Sam and I had a lovely lunch with Silvia and Ian, their kids and our kids. Then when all the dishes were done, we played Buracco. Ian and I against Sam and Silvia.  Ian and I kicked #ss and won.

Back to the Pope.

Ratzinger toured Savona and the city of Genoa including the Gaslini Children's Hospital.  Click here for the very biased AFP take on the weekend and  here for the more balanced, if you can say that, IHT report.

Huh?

Continuing with the topic of "You never know what you will stumble upon in Italy"....

On the way from Sarah's saggio, back to Carol's house for ice cream, we see this motorino with THIS bumper sticker.  These days I suppose Hillary needs all the help she can - do you think support in Italy will get her the election?  

 

Saggio

Yesterday Sarah had her violin Saggio.   My dear friends Carol and Mary came as well. Carol lives practically across the street from the Conservatory and Sarah is in and out of her house carrying her violin, yet Carol has never heard her play and walked to her church, San Francesco di Albaro, also across the street from the conservatory, with her cane, just to hear Sarah play. 

Well... 

Sarah played so beautifully, she brought a tear to my friends Carol and Mary's eye. I don't know if she played the best of all or had the better sounding violin, but she was marvelous. Sarah's greatest gift has always been the Diva that lives inside her. She knows how to put on a show and plays with passion when she performs, and that is something your don't see or hear when she plays at home.  

Brava Sarah!

Mom.  

Farm Fresh Eggs!

Wouldn't Martha Stewart be envious of these beauties?

Anna had a new friend for a sleep over last night and she happens to live outside of Chiavari. The girls had a 5 o'clock wake up call for a school "gita"- field trip, and it was much easier on her parents if she stayed here. Well, as a thank you for this simple deed, when her Dad dropped her off he left me a dozen, freshly laid eggs from their chickens!  Sam and I fried some up this morning for breakfast and those eggs were mmm mmm good.  Nice yellow/red yolks that stood up at attention and the whites as smooth as velvet. Unfortunately we are going out for dinner this evening... or else I'd be making Zabaione! Cholesterol be damned! How often does a nice city girl like me get farm fresh eggs! Dad, eat your heart out!

Cockle doodle doo!

Krista

Ho Passato

Woo Woo!

Sam and I - BOTH - passed our road test today! After 8 years of quasi legal driving in Italy, we are now proud holders of an Italian "Patente di Guida"

This afternoon we waited for what seemed eternity, under the HOT spring Riviera sun, no water, and more importantly for me, no toilets, for our turn at the wheel. Out of the 6 who took the test, only one failed - Thank god it wasn't one of us. 

After 26 years of what I think have been full of safe driving, meaning, no accidents and only one very debatable speeding ticket, I have the reaffirmation from the Republic of Italy and their very reputable servant that I am qualified to drive. So there!

I suppose all that money Sam and I PAID in CASH, close to 1,000 euro - $$$ - more or less $1,500 - to the school to have the privilege to sit through the most boring classes with the most uninspiring teachers, to learn what we already knew, how to drive -  to then try to take the theory test TWICE and then to be subjected to the stress of driving in Chiavari at 5:00 o'clock in the  afternoon to prove we were worthy...

What can I say other than...

Grazie Dio it is all over!

Krista

Patente di Guida

Would you believe...

That tomorrow...

At 3 pm or 1500 hours... Sam and I...

Gasp!

Will be taking our....

Driving Test!!!!!!!!! Clear the roads - Make way - Here we come!

After 8, yes, count them, 8 years, we are finally taking the final part of our driving exam.  If all goes well, we will have our own version of what you see above with a flash photo.  

All hail to the Neopatente!

Say a prayer for us.

Krista

Winner... Winner...

Drum roll please....

The 6,000th visitor to "Our Italian Adventure" is...

Joanne (or so I think)!

Krista

Chi sara 6,000?

Who will be the 6,000 visitor to "Our Italian Adventure"?

Tick tock, tick tock....

Krista

Cresima/Confirmation

I am finally home... totally destroyed at 9 pm.

Here are a few photos of Sarah's big day.







It was a long day full of emotions....

Ti voglio bene Sarah!

Mom

Posh Sarah

Sarah




Yesterday was spent running around getting ready for Sarah's big day - her confirmation! Another round of pressies in less than 4 days.

Today I am offline. Check back later on and see the photos of Sarah

Ugly Buildings in Italy

Wandering around Italy, I am always in awe of the stunning architecture. But amongst the art of the antique buildings and palazzos live the horrors of modern architecture.

For example, this



It never ceases to amaze me that in a country where some of the best designers live and work, someone had to sit down and say -Yes, I like that, then someone else has to say Yes, I will finance the construction.

Welcome to my new passion...

Finding the absolute Ugliest Building in Italy!

Krista

Freaky Friday

Along the theme of you never know what you come across while walking in Chiavari.....

This is what Sam and I happened upon on during our morning outing to do the day's "spesa" (shopping) - in the carrugio (walking street).

A vintage WWII German BMW r75 Motorcycle with a sidecar!




As you can see, the bike is in near perfect condition baring the few "personal" touches made by the owner. Now, I don't know the market value of such a motorcycle, but keep in mind this thing has been parked along the vespas and modern BMWs. Meaning, the owner is most likely using it frequently.

If you are a BMW r75 motorcycle "anorack" (think trainspotter) rent the DVD of "A Bridge too Far" or you can see Steve McQeen in "The Great Escape" ride one (without the sidecar) through the hills of Fussen, Germany.

Otherwise...

Feast your eyes on this!

Sarahcakes!

Sarah's nickname at Usdan - the summer camp she goes to - is Sarahcakes!

Sarah had a perfect birthday. Friends, cake and pressies!

Not list all of her presents... but her favorite of all seems to be the envelopes she opened with - COLD HARD CASH -

Sarah, with her new found wealth, is going to buy herself something very nice when she is in New York this summer, an electric bass guitar!

Rock on Sarah!

Krista

Lerma

Not wanting to push down the post on Sarah's big 14, but since these photos are in some way related to Sarah...

Sam and I are finally becoming homeowners in Italy.

Yes, we are putting down roots in Bell' Italia. Crazy maybe. But, if you take a close look at the photos, you can see the view... It goes for miles and miles. Best part, some very special people are across the road. Cristina and Virginia.

This Saturday we go to start the paperwork to set this deal in motion and if luck is on our side, the house will be ours in September.

Then the fun begins

Krista

Happy Birthday Sarah!

A poet is, before anything else, a person who is passionately in love with language.
W. H. Auden

Happy Birthday to my dear Sarah. May your love and passion for language remain with you through life's amazing journey. Let it sustain you and feed your brilliant mind.

As you strike out on your own to conquer the world,

Remember

Life is not a race, it is a ride
Take it in stride

Stay strong of heart with a passion to learn
Look to the stars and yearn

For a love that is true
find it and let it sustain you

In your struggle to grow
Think back and know

The place from which you came
Gave you a name

Proudly loves all that you do
And always will be here for you.


Mom

If it smells like a fascist

It must be

Gianni Alemanno to blacklist Hollywood stars to promote Italian films

The new mayor of Rome, Gianni Alemanno, a former fascist, has launched a campaign to promote Italian films at the expense of those featuring Hollywood stars such as Nicole Kidman and Leonardo DiCaprio, who are to be blacklisted.

American actors who flocked to Rome for its film festival will no longer be invited, on the orders of Alemanno, 50, of the National Alliance party, who last week became the first rightwinger to win the mayor’s job in 15 years.

You know, sometimes living in this country is amazing. Can you make this stuff up? Maybe he is jealous and thinks he should be in George Clooney's shoes getting jigging with Nicole Kidman.

I can't say this is how you make friends....


Krista

Life's Surprises

When you take a walk in the hills above our home, you never know what you will happen across....

For instance,

A swing on a tree.


A 4 wheel quad in front of a home with no drive way and no road! See the metal bar that is going up the terrace? Guess what, it is not a hand rail. It is the track for the "elevator" that carries the owner from his quad to his home. Think of an amusement park kiddy roller coaster. I tried to get a shot of the contraption, but the owner had it all the way at the top.

Why a roller coaster besides the obvious thrill each trip up and down? Can you see that house behind the olive trees on top the hill? That is why. The terraces are one on top of the other and STEEP, how else does one get all the groceries and stuff up there?


Why does anyone live there? (BTW, the man that does is 75 years old!) I would suppose the silence and beauty of it all.


Every once in while you do find something truly baffling....




Krista

Portofino

Here is a lovely photo of Portofino to end long holiday weekend.





Sam and I had a brunch in Leivi this morning with Jan and Virginie then took a walk.

We ended up at Silvia and Maurizio's for a cold drink and lively conversation.

A spendid day in every way. I even received compliments on my Italian. Yes, I had to speak it all day. Those lessons have paid off. Yet another reason I have no time to blog.



Buonasera!

Krista

Driving Lessons

After living almost 8 (gasp) years in Bella Italia, Sam and I are finally in the process of getting our Italian driving licenses. We paid the money, took the medical exam and recieved our "foglio rosa" . Then we spent our winter evenings at driving school twice a week since February. Again another reason for no time to blog.

Why is this such a big deal?

Well, to begin with I never thought I would be living in Italy in 2008. When we first moved here I was living on the assumption that this was a 2 to 3 year thing and we would be, as always, moving on.... Silly me. By the time I realized that I was here in Italy for a while, see, I still can't say permanently, I was here long enough to know the horrors of Italian bureaucracy and the horror waiting for me when I applied for an Italian driving license.

Basically Americans cannot just trade in their American driving license for an Italian one or drive for too long with out ... Why? Complicated like all things Italian. Simply put, though not really that simple to Italians who live in a Republic not a Federation, there is no such thing as an "American" driving license like an "Italian" driving license! Therein lies the dilemma. 50 international treaties to negotiate with 50 American states was too much along with the anti American feelings at one time way back when in the 80s, something about missiles in Europe and Reagan. So what was once uncomplicated became complicated when Italy decided to take away the driving license reciprocity between Italy and America. Where did that leave me? In limbo. I had my international license what more did I need? My Italian is terrible and I feared I would never pass the theory test, I knew it was difficult if even my young Italian friends failed it. I thought as a typical New Yorker... foggettaboutit.

Then the Italian government started a campaign a few years ago to combat road fatalities and speeding and placed more restrictions on driving (speed cameras), to stop corruption - centralized the testing for new licenses (now I could take it in English, no more excuses) and starting this July, will place heavy restrictions on new license holders or, as they say in Italian, "neopatente". Yikes! It was time to bite the bullet and become a "neopatente" before this process became even more complicated. Love that "neo" part, makes me feel like a teenager.

In April we took the theory test after 2 separate attempts... First time we tried, we went all the way to Genoa at 7 in the morning with our driving instructor (see we can't drive to the test) and after waiting hours we couldn't actually take the test for the computers were offline. No plan B. No written tests just in case... Whatever. Second attempt was almost a repeat of the first... but somehow the system finally worked and we actually took and passed the test. Amazing in both respects. The test is a test written to fail you, not test your logic or knowledge of driving laws. And could you imagine if one of us passed and the other failed? Me either.

Now that we have safely passed the written part we are permitted to take the "practical" test. Sam and I are scheduled for the 15th. Presently, we are enjoying the second phase of driving hell.... driving lessons. Yup, after 24+ years of safe driving, I have to prove that I am worthy to drive in Italy. Apparently I am not, according to the kid, yes, I feel that old, I don't know how to drive. Ok really what he means is that I don't know how to drive for the test...oh, I didn't realize there was a difference. I thought safe driving was safe driving. Guess not. And if this kid touches my steering wheel the next time I take a lesson, by the way, the school's car, a Lancia, think GMC Gremlin if you can, I will haul off and smack him. Why not, I did it to my driving instructor in NY way back when. The nerve!

I will keep you updated on our progress and please pray for Sam and I on May 15th.

Drive safely! (not that they actually teach you that in driving school, but I digress)

Krista

Sant' Anna di Stazzema

April 25th was "Feste della Liberazione" or "Liberation Day" in Italy. A day not unlike Memorial Day in the U.S. of A. Parades... bbqs... and a nice long weekend. Sam and I found ourselves without Sarah - big surprise she was in Lerma with Virginia - and a very restless Anna. What did we do?

We took a trip to see the yacht that famous architect designed and the one whose construction Sam is supervising.

Aren't Sam and Anna cute in hardhats?



Since it was the day after Liberation day, we went on to visit -



Sant' Anna di Stazzema



A few years back Sam happened upon the book written James McBride "The Miracle at St. Anna". There he was at the airport looking for a read, Sam saw the cover with a little boy set during WWII and an Italian story line - he was hooked. He read the book, then I did, we recently gave it to Sarah, she was asked to read it for school. We all loved the book. The story was powerful and over the years we have passed our well worn copy to friends and family. After Sam and I read the book we were curious to see and visit Sant' Anna di Stazzema for we knew it wasn't far from Chiavari. Last week we finally made our trek and saw the tiny village where the novel is set.

Some backround.

Stazzema is a hilltop village in the Tuscan hills or the "Appenines" outside La Spezia. For those who know their Italian WWII war history, you know that those hills were part of the "Gothic Line" that stretched across Italy all the way to the Adriatic Sea and was the German army's last major defense line during their retreat from Italy.



The area was full of partigiani (Italian resistance fighters) and saw heavy fighting as the Germans retreated and many war atrocities were committed. Among one of the worst was the Massacre at Sant' Anna di Stazzema. German troops marched into this town on August 12th and in retaliation for partisan activity in the area slaughtered 560 women, old men and children - including infants and even a newborn. The war ended, the world moved on and St. Anna was forgotten. In 1994 that all changed and things were set in motion that brought the story to light. Prosecution for those who ordered the massacre finally came in 2005. If you are interested and want to read more click here . The site has a very good short summary.

The Miracle at Sant' Anna is coming to theaters near you! Spike Lee has been filming the movie based on the book and just wrapped up a few months ago. I believe it will be released next year in the fall. The film is already controvsial, Spike Lee, what can one say? Controversy is his middle name. Read the book before you are tempted by the movie. I promise you the book is worth it and you have plenty of time to do so before the movie hits theaters.

If you come to Pisa on your trip to Italy... take the time to make the pilgrimage to Sant' Anna. If you get car sick easily, take your motion sickness pills, the road up is steep and full of twists and turns - like life.


Krista

Welcome me Back!

I know.... It has been a long time since I posted. Time slips away and life goes on.

I won't hit you hard with a long complicated post updating all of my thoughts about life and what I have been up to since last August. Be satisfied that I have not gone underground or disappeared. Life just goes at the speed of light and some things are lost in the trail of dust you leave behind trying to keep up.

So.

Here are a few recent photos of the family at the AIWC of Genoa's Annual Spring Gala in support of the local children's hospital Gaslini. We raised 10,000 euro in one night. Not bad.

A presto and I will blog again real soon!

Krista